There's two kinds of nasi lemak: the Malay version and the Chinese version. The Malay-style nasi lemak focuses more on the nasi, with a little less sides, but a lot more lemak. Chinese-style nasi lemak feels more like a zhng-ed up cai-png; it doesn't matter if your coconut rice isn't that flavourful, as long as your sambal is decent and your sides (especially the chicken wings) are shiok.
When it comes to Chinese-style nasi lemak, not many stalls do it as well as Chong Pang Nasi Lemak. For the past few decades, this cramped, dingy shophouse has somehow convinced Singaporeans to travel to (before the days of Downtown and Circle Line, mind you) one of the most ulu corners of the North -- Khatib.
Quiz their regulars about what motivates them to endure this exhausting ride and they will probably point to the items on their plate: a scoop of sambal chilli, a heap of stir-fried vegetables, and two juicy pieces of chicken wings.
Let's start with the chicken wing. Doused in a sizzling pool of oil, these plump wings emerge from the wok with a crisp and golden crust. That's where you can observe the quality of their batter. With an average batter, a chicken wing looks and tastes like two distinct elements, since you can clearly separate the meat from the crust. With a quality batter, like Chong Pang's, the crust is almost woven into the meat, unfurling from the first bite in satisfying crackles.
Yet, that's only the beginning. The follow up is a dizzying medley of textures and flavours, as the meat showcases its moist and tender bite, oozing buttery chicken juices with every light squeeze. No wonder they have someone permanently stationed at their fry station; these bad boys need to be constantly resupplied.
I would honestly visit Chong Pang Nasi Lemak for only their chicken wings, but they do a decent job with the rest of their nasi lemak as well. Though the coconut rice is less flavourful than before (which explains why the stall has waned in popularity), it is redeemed by their addictive sambal chilli. Packing a potent punch of umami, this robust relish empowers the mildly-flavoured rice, transforming it into a moreish plate of carbs that nudges you on despite its fiery aftertaste.
As for the sides, they don't possess the wow factor of their chicken wings. In fact, it's a mixed bag of ooh's and oof's with these toppings. You can't go wrong with their sambal-coated brinjal and chunky pieces of otah but you can definitely give their doughy vegetable fritters a miss.
When it comes to nasi lemak, Chong Pang Nasi Lemak can be regarded as the few OGs in the game. That doesn't mean that their food is perfect. Or that its taste hasn't changed in the past 40 odd years. It does mean, however, that the stall deserves admiration for the steadfast commitment to the standards that they have set. And it shows in the food -- simple and unabashedly sinful food -- that they serve.
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